Bengals are healthy, active cats that can live well into their late teens or even their twenties. The Bengal is a cat that maintains a high activity level even out of kittenhood. As with any cat, they should be kept indoors and free from disease. Regular veterinary checks are important for any cat throughout their lives. You should consult your breeder for the vaccination protocol they have used with their Bengals and discuss that protocol with your veterinarian.
VET VISIT
I ask that this be done within the first seven days unless we have made other arrangements and it is in writing. The main reason is your assurance of the kitten/cat's health and if there is anything wrong that we did not pick up here. Kittens in new homes often have changes that cause stress, stress tends to act on them as it does on us... so err on the side of caution and REMEMBER have your vet call mine with ANY questions.
The following are what the kittens have had: A note here. Vaccinations have become more controversial of late. The idea of vaccines is simply to create an immune system that can handle exposure to disease. So, I follow my veterinarian's advice and give the following... your veterinarian may be different, so speak to them about what they are doing and let me know.
CVR Bivalent Intranasal vaccine given at 8 weeks. This is to reduce the number of injectable vaccines given.
Fort Dodge FPL CVR killed vaccine (given at: 11 weeks, and 14 weeks)
NOTE: After a lot of discussion, my vet and I concur that we will no longer give the vaccine for FeLV. There is enough question, in my opinion, to not give this vaccine when my cattery is FeLV negative. All my adults test negative and are current on vaccines, and kittens do not come in contact with other cats... so, I would prefer to stress their systems less. If you have a FeLV positive cat,\ or are going to go outside with the kitten then by all means give the vaccine as a young kitten, otherwise six months of age is the earliest I would recommend... But, as always, follow the advice of your veterinarian. We give: FeLV Rhone Mecieux leucat killed vaccine.
IMREAB 3 killed virus. RABIES check with your state regulations on age. I am often asked if it is necessary to give a rabies vaccine... and my answer is from the point of view of liability and it is yes. If your kitten should happen to break the skin of a visitor it is important to have proof of vaccination. (given according to state law)
What my veterinarian checks for:
Heart. We occasionally have heart murmurs. These have been developmental in nature, meaning that the kitten simply outgrows these are they mature. This is noted IF there is a heart murmur found.
Temperature. Temperature is important to check. It is often the first sign of any infection or illness and is noted in the record you receive. Normal cat temperatures are anything around 99 - 103. Depending on stress, etc. they can vary greatly.
Weight. I keep a weight chart on each kitten and we track the rate of growth so there is a comparison with the litter and with other litters. Any deviation from the norm is noted.
Cataracts. There have been some "juvenile cataracts" found and these too are noted if they are found. They are not visible to our eye, but through a special scope the vet checks these out.
Knees and joints. Checked to see if there are any abnormalities.
Stool check of the litter. (sometimes it is very hard to find who did what in the litter box :))
If all is well with a kitten. It is simply not written up, sometimes you will see the PE WNL on the sheet ... meaning Physical Exam, Within Normal Limits. The main things to note are given to you. Weight, temperature, vaccine date and when the next vaccines are due.
This is chart that will arrive with your kitten. Take this to the veterinarian with you. A post card is attached to the form for your veterinarian to fill out and send to me at the time of the first seven day health visit this post card activates the guarantee.
DATE
FPL CVR
FELV
RABIES
OTHER
date seen by veterinarian
standard
see the note on this above
according to age
here is where vet's notations appear
Take this record with you when your veterinarian sees the kitten. The kitten must be fully immunized and often, due to age, has not received all the series. This record will allow your veterinarian to clearly see what needs to be given.
Attached to this record is a self addressed stamped post card that MUST be sent to me to keep your health guarantee. This post card merely shows the kitten was seen, the date it was seen, who your vet is and what was found.
Bengals, as with many other cats, can develop gingivitis. Fortunately, gingivitis can be avoided if owners are aware. Symptoms include red along the gum line and bad breath. A healthy diet is important in avoiding and treating gingivitis. Yearly dental checks by a licensed veterinarian are a good idea.
VACCINES DUE:
The dates are noted for you.
MY HEALTH GUARANTEE IS BASED ON A MINIMAL TWO WEEK ISOLATION PERIOD AND YOUR VETERINARIAN?S APPROVAL OF THE KITTEN?S HEALTH. YOUR VET HAS TO CALL MINE WITH ANY AND ALL QUESTIONS. 614-436-9922
Note: Annually my adult cats are tested for Feline Corona virus (FCoV). The test for FCoV looks for an exposure to a benign virus that has produced antibodies. While up to 85% of all cats are estimated to have been exposed to Feline Corona virus (thus the test is positive for antibodies), it is understood that the corona virus mutates into Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) which is fatal, in only 1-5% of the positive cats for Corona virus. The lack of a specific test and the inability to accurately diagnose FIP without an autopsy, leaves the breeder, the owner, and the veterinarian with little to go on. Understand. The presence of a corona titer is not indicative of FIP, the mutation takes place in the individual cat and is not understood to be "transferable from one cat to another." While corona viruses are shared, FIP is not something that is "caught."
My approach to cat breeding is to be as cutting edge with what is available as possible and to offer to you the best guarantees that I can. Because of this, I can guarantee that I do everything possible to minimize exposure to Corona virus, make sure that there is little stress in the life of the kittens and cats, select only strong, healthy breeding cats for my program and, if one should become ill from the virus, replace the kitten as soon as possible. Even in sterile, clinical environments where extensive testing is done, Corona virus has been found after specifically selecting against it! Because of the nature of the virus, I cannot guarantee that any Akerrs cats or kittens will not have Corona virus exposure but I will guarantee that I do all I can to minimize any and all health issues and respond appropriately should any problem occur.
At this time I cannot recommend the FIP vaccines, you must work this out with your veterinarian. Most veterinarians and breeders do not check for Corona virus titers because they are so ambiguous and can give both false positives and negatives. The vaccine is relatively new and thus not tested over years. This leaves us in a quandary... one of those situations where the more you know, the more you know you do not know....
I became increasingly aware of the need for more information through an email list I co-moderate, this is a support list that advises on cattery management and with issues concerning Feline Infectious Peritonitis. The more we understand the more effective we can be. Because this is a virus that typically effects the young, under one year of age or the very old... (known as an opportunistic virus) I searched out some options. Thus, the insurance option is offered to you. See below:
The time has come, the kitten is going home to you.
This is an exciting time, one filled with moments that are often priceless.... I want to help you make this transition one that is enjoyed.
There are several questions that need to be addressed:
What has the kitten been eating?
Litter and litter boxes
Have on hand
Introduction into the new home?
Sources for toys, etc.
When should I take the new kitten to my vet?
What is this about Pet Insurance?
EATING:
As of March, 2005 I am switching to a combined raw and canned food diet. This is a big change for the cattery and one that I have researched and feel comfortable with doing. The hesitancy I have is for the new owners of the kittens and the transition period between what I do here and what you do in your home. To make this transition easier, I will detail out what I am doing, give you the links to see the information on line and give you time to "digest" the information!
The raw + Wellness I feed in the morning and at night. IF YOU PLAN TO NOT DO THE RAW, then feed lots of the Wellness canned until the kitten becomes used to eating the dry as well. As a rule they prefer the Raw/Wellness combination.
For the kittens I am feeding 1 part Bravo Raw Diet* to two parts Wellness* (chicken/herring or turkey/salmon). To the Bravo raw I add some vitamins and oils with Feline Instincts*. I am continuing to feed some dry which is a combination of Wellness kitten dry and Innova Evo. This is mixed at about 50/50 and left out all the time.
Links are as follows:
http://cats.about.com/od/homepreparedfood site for general information
http://www.bravorawdiet.com or http://www.omaspride.com raw diets
http://www.felineinstincts.com additives
http://www.oldmotherhubbard.com Wellness label
http://www.purina.com/institute/news.asp?article=232 diabetic diet (high protein/low carb)
Any change in the kitten?s diet should be done gradually. Mix in 90% regular food to 10% new food and continue to add increasing numbers of the new food each day. Take about two weeks before completely transitioning. Cats are sensitive to change and sometimes a change in diet can cause some intestinal irregularities.
If you have an established cat or dog already present... you now have the opportunity to be creative in keeping the kitten?s food available to the kitten and not have it eaten by everyone else! We all love challenges...
TREATS
When I really want to praise a kitten or encourage a slow eater, I will mix in a jar of human baby meat food... such as the turkey or chicken with their regular food. Your vet should have Hill?s AD available which very loved... for a special treat brown some ground chicken. In general, kittens do not need a lot of variety in their diet and do best when fed consistently the same things.
There are new snack treats on the market. I highly recommend finding your kitten?s favorite food. Food is a primary motivator for training! You can use food as a reward when teaching to come, sit, fetch, etc.. Bengal cats are quick learners and food a big motivator!
LITTER AND LITTER BOXES
I use an open litter box with a ?kick plate? around the edge. There is about 1 inch of clay litter in the boxes. The kittens are litter trained when they leave here... to make sure you do not have any problems I recommend the following. If using a closed litter box, be sure to make another opening at the other end... for "escape". I do not recommend closed boxes... Littermaids, the automatic ones, make ideal Bengal cat toys... they love to jump in them and watch the little scraper go back and forth!
Prevention is key. Watch introductory behavior to make sure kitten is successful in using the litter box.
Early spay and neuter is recommended by some feline behaviorist to ?eliminate the elimination disorder?. Since beginning this in 1997 we have had nothing but positive results in health, behavior and in rapid recovery time.
Have plenty of litter pans available in easily accessed areas that are quiet and the cat will not be alarmed when in the litter box. (Such as a drier alarm sounding or an overhead item falling on them.)
The rule of thumb is one more litter pan available than the number of cats living in the home. Remember it is better to start out with more when the kitten is young and reduce the number of boxes as the kitten matures.
Any changes in position of the pan should be done slowly. You can change litter pan places, but do so at increments of two feet a day until the litter box that is moving, joins the stationary one.
The main idea with litter pans is to prevent incorrect behavior. Your kitten comes to you knowing to use the litter pan... all we have to do is understand this natural behavior and support it.
I use a clay litter. I recommend to continue on clay until the kitten is older... any change in litter is done gradually, because TEXTURE is important to cats.
Draw a room arrangement of your house and possible places for the litter box. This is important to think through. Think in terms of more boxes initially, then gradually move the litter boxes to where you permanently want them.
BASIC THINGS TO HAVE ON HAND
As training aids I recommend squirt guns... can be really fun for the family... but not always practical... in fact some Bengal cats seem to enjoy getting squirted. I send your kitten home with you with a squirt gun and special treat... for positive reinforcement as well.
The compressed air dusters used for dusting photo equipment, computers, fax machines, etc.. makes a sound of a cat hissing. This is an excellent correction to use.
Climbing trees. Bengal cats love to climb high.... nothing like a leopard in a tree. Find sturdy, sisal rope wrapped climbing poles and shelves for relaxation. A special place is in front of the window. There are some really beautiful climbing trees available.
http://www.armarkat.com several clients recommend this site!
There are now spray scents that are excellent for modification: catnip sprayed on areas to attract; Boundary, Bitter Apple, Bitter Lime, etc. on areas to keep them off.
Scratching posts. Cats tend to scratch close to where they sleep... combing the art of relaxation with their yoga stretches and territorial marking! So a good place for that tall scratching post is next to their favorite sleeping place. Also, a product I am trying out is called No Scratch. A pump spray for furniture to prevent the natural clawing... it seems to work well, but needs to be redone every week or so. Does not have an unpleasant odor.
Lots of toys of all kinds: fishing pole toys, plastic straws, catnip mice, fur mice, feathers (unless you have pet birds), circle ball toys with scratching center, card board boxes, sacks, rolls of paper, anything you are interested in... Bengal cats are very interactive. Teach yours to fetch!
INTRODUCTION TO NEW HOME
Receiving blanket
Smell seems to be a factor in getting everyone to accept each other... so neutralizing the smell of the ?new? by making everyone smell alike goes a long way in adjusting. The new kitten arrives with a ?blanket? that smells like the kitten?s home and family. This serves as a security blanket and as a way of transferring odors. The last week before the kitten arrives, place a terry cloth towel or other absorbent material in an area that your resident animals visit. When picking up the kitten from my home or the airport, bring this with you, place it in the carrier and wipe the new kitten with it... when you arrive home take the kitten?s receiving blanket and wipe the resident cats and animals with it. This will transfer the odors and help everyone smell appropriately.
Safe room
Create a safe room for the kitten where litter box, feed, and toys are present. Make the room comfortable and have it large enough for you to be able to visit with special toys and treats. This room will allow everyone to sniff under the door and get used to each other?s smells. It is a good idea to isolate a new animal for up to two to three weeks while everyone is adjusting and getting to know each other. This also helps control of disease that may be passed from one animal to another.
Carrier
Sometimes it is helpful to put one of the animals in a carrier in a room and allow the others to wander around the carrier getting to know the new kitten. This process can work well. Place the new cat in the carrier at first and then reverse the process... this allows for exploring and smelling in a safe area.
Play Time
This is fun! Bring out the feather toy or the fishing pole and really keep everyone busy. Just like people meeting each other for the first time a toy that both find very interesting helps to ease the tension and allows everyone to play and get to know each other in a safe way.
Be sure to take your time. Remember that you are looking at lifelong relationships and though it seems you want everything to work out as quickly as possible... it is a good idea to watch and observe, let the animals set the pace for what is comfortable for them. Observe. Play. Pay special attention. It is not unusual for the introductory process to take about two weeks.
Kittens under 6 months of age are readily accepted into multi cat households.
BRINGING THE NEW KITTEN HOME
Why am I insistent that the new kitten be isolated for a period of two weeks?
We all want to automatically walk in the door with our newest kitten and immediately introduce one and all to each other, but this is not advisable. Your new kitten is in excellent health, all the shots given, your current cats are all inoculated and in excellent health... so what possible harm can there be? Each environment carries its own little flora and fauna of the infectious disease world... and even though we cannot see any problems, moving to a new home away from siblings and known environment can sometimes be too much stress for the kitten. It is not common but also not unusual for a kitten to react to stress by having loose stools and upper respiratory infections. It is also not out of the ordinary for the resident cat to find the new kid a bit stressful... so the best advice is to allow a period of time to elapse that would allow any latent infections to come to the surface rather than expose the cats to possible infectious disease.
For a corollary think of a day care center and the spreading of germs... cats are much the same. In the two week period the cats are exposed to each other, under the doorways, by smell , and sound they gradually get to know that there are other cats . This allows for a smooth transition.
Do I insist that this be what you do? I understand the temptation to not wait the recommended amount of time... but my guarantee of health is based on the isolation for two weeks.
CATALOGS
Doctors Foster and Smith 1-800-826-7206
The Dog?s Outfitter 1-800-367-3647
Jeffers 1-800-533-3377
Mail Order Pet Shop 1-800-366-7387
RC Steele 1-800-872-3773
Revival 1-800-786-4751
UPCO?S 1-800-233-9696
Another toy source is cat shows. There are often vendors with creative toys at reasonable prices. This is also a good source for some of those climbing toys.
PET INSURANCE
http://www.petinsurance.com
There has been a change in the pet insurance program as of May 1, 2003. the new program requires a one year policy instead of allowing me to give you a three month policy. This new policy must also be in your name, for me to enact it puts it under my name... which is of no use to you. To offset this I do the following:
I will pay $35 of the fee for one year of health/accident insurance, and you pay the additional charge when the kitten is released to you. If you have a multicat household, have a lot of activity (two legged and four legged) and have any question at all on the health... do this!
You opt for no insurance coverage in which case I will take $35 off the cost of the kitten, but will only guarantee the health of the kitten for 72 hours. This is because I can only guarantee the kitten in my home, with my vet and cannot guarantee when the kitten is out of my home against many things that exist in the environment. The idea of the accident/health insurance in essence gives you a one year health guarantee. If you have no other cats, dogs, children, etc.. and are going to keep the kitten inside and not expose it to other things... then this might work for you.
The one year policy must be enacted by you. I give you a $35 rebate. If you want to use this policy, you should enact it two weeks prior to picking up the kitten.
A basic program will not cover the "well" vet checks or vaccines, but will cover any illness that is not congenital. *see the insurance company for more programs.
You pay the vet bill, and then send in the form and verification of cost to the insurance company for reimbursement.
There is, as in all insurance, a deductible.
Final note:
It is my goal to make sure you have the healthiest, well socialized and beautiful animal as possible. I want to enhance your life... please know that you can ask me any questions and that your vet can contact mine for phone consultation.
Terminology
gold lettering is for the Bengal cat speak... Golden Similar to sorrel but more gold in tone. Spot tends to be dark brown in tone.
Leopard Refers to a black spotted coat.
Sorrel Refers to the golden/red coloring found on some brown spotted tabbies. This color is very highly rufoused and tends to have a brown spot.
Rufus The yellowish-brown tint to the overall cat.
Snow Often used as a combination term for sepia , mink, and seal lynx point coloring.
Marble The swirled pattern resulting from the classic tabby bull's-eye pattern. There should be three or more colors in this swirled effect.
Rosetting Two toned spots. Some have doughnut shaped outer lining, some have arrow head shape, and some are formed with small spots around redder center.
Agouti Banding. All tabbies have agouti banding in the background. It is what gives the coat its color as bands of color lie on the hair shaft. When you rub the coat backward you see the bands of color difference from hair tip to the skin... when this banding color difference is extreme the coloring is fuzzed, when the coloring is similar it is clear.
Spotted to the skin. Is a way of referring to spotting that is self colored, all one color on the hair shaft with no apparent agouti banding.
Coat
This is a hard area to evaluate without seeing the kitten or cat . Refers often to coat texture and patterning.
Clear Coated The hair shaft has little variation in the agouti banding of the background color making the spotting contrast more extreme.
Pelt Refers to the textured feel of the Bengal. There are at least four basic types of "pelt" . velvet feel, satin, plush, and coarse.
Striping The pattern is vertically striped ?mackerel? this usually occurs on the rib area and is not desirable.
Ticked Refers to bands of color that lie on a single hair, this gives the coat a blurred effect when the colors are too extreme and when the spots are also agouti bands without color density.
Glitter is the hollow air shaft that surrounds the coloring of the hair. Unique to the Bengal.